de Tocqueville Tour

A rest day in Pierre allowed us ample time to visit and enjoy the South Dakota State Capitol. Pierre was selected from among seven candidates for the Capitol back when it entered the Union in 1889 as the 40th state. Although a small center, Pierre won out with the argument that it is the geographic center of the state.

The statehouse looked vary similar to others we had seen – especially the statehouse in Helena Montana (no surprise there as the same plans were used as a cost cutting measure)

On approach to the building there is a bronze relief commemorating the Declaration of Independence.

The building is beautiful even as it is more compact then many of it’s legislative cousins. Kind of embodying the philosophy of Jack Reacher (everything they need, and nothing that they don’t need) It has a dome and marbled interiors, and separate chambers for the House of Representatives and the Sentate.

It also contains the Governor’s office, which has the invitation “come on in” on it’s door. So we did so. We were not able to ascertain if Governor Kristi Noem was present (news on the Governor’s agenda is not disclosed) but we were able to view some of the momento’s in the office. Among these were a picture of her on her Harley Davidson (instantly endearing her to us) and pictures of various bills that she co-sponsored in the US House of Representatives when she was a congresswoman from 2011 to 2019. One act dealt with the issue of “on-line sexual trafficking”, and was signed by House Speaker Paul Ryan, Senate President Pro Tempore Orrin Hatch and President Donald Trump (who’s bold signature looks not unlike a seismic plot of a Richter 10 earthquake – in a political sense apropos)

Following her stint in Congress, she ran as Governor successfully in 2018 and won re-election in 2022 to another four year term. By accounts a strong person – a byproduct of her farming background – it would not be a surprise to see her as a Republican candidate for President in the future.

Leaving Lincoln, we headed due west on US-34. Clear blue skies, temperatures in the low 20s it was a perfect day for riding. US-34 runs parallel to I-80 and offers a much more agreeable route. We made good time but stopped in a variety of towns along the way. The terrain continued from the day before – corn fields rimmed by deciduous glades – with the occasional ‘specialized’ industry. We saw a ‘popcorn’ operation and a plant that made IAMS dog food.

We followed the North Loup River for stretches, the road designated a scenic byway.

The town of Taylor featured a number of full size cut outs of folks from the pioneer era. We stopped to snap a shot of a couple in a buggy

The corn fields continued north west towards Burwell , but then the terrain changed. The land gave way to rolling grass covered dunes with very few trees. It looked like perfect terrain for a links style golf course. The land certainly wasn’t suitable for anything other than grazing land for cattle. Only problem was there very few cattle in sight. When they did appear, they were all clustered together in low lying areas, where water seemed to be available. It was so different from the cattle in Alberta which are randomly distributed in the countryside. Were they gathering for the water? In anticipation of some weather event? (not likely, it was still clear blue skies). Or are they agoraphobic? It remains a mystery.

A fueling stop in Bassett and a brief stint at an old Philips 66 replica and we headed north to South Dakota, crossing the border near Wewela. Here the land became just straight flat prairie, with nothing but grazing land in each direction.. The route from here was straight and otherwise uneventful. We arrived in Pierre, crossed the Missouri River once again and checked into our hotel.

The Nebraska State Capitol in Lincoln was found to be in the midst of a renovation. Halls were filled with old wooden furniture covered with sheets. Compared to the statehouse in Topeka that we visited the same morning, the building felt old and somewhat medieval in it’s appointments – possibly due to poor lighting from old fixtures (hopefully the reno will improve this)

The main halls in the building – with the low lighting – leaves one feeling they are in an old cathedral rather than a legislature. The statehouse is one of those few that include a tall tower in lieu of the more conventional dome. The tower has a small dome, and the room below the dome has this beautiful green marble along the walls.

The statehouse is unique in that it has a ‘unicameral assembly’ which means that the house and the senate share the same hall for their deliberations. Apparently the original thinking was that it was more economical to build one chamber versus two and it would otherwise promote comity among the legislators. Space was allocated (seemingly) to the creation of a beautiful library.

Like other statehouses, notable Nebraskans are featured and honored in the capitol in the form of bronze busts set into stone alcoves. Among the honorees were John Pershing (a famous general), Edward Flanagan (founder of a boys school) and “Buffalo Bill” Cody.

The tower is also provisioned with an open air platform, offering views of the four points of the compass.

After a quick visit to the Kansas State Capitol, we headed due north on US-75 past Netawaka before striking east on KS-20. This was the connector to the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway, where KS-7 follows the western shore of the Missouri River.

The riding today was mostly on straight roads at highway speeds, but was altogether pleasant given the clear blue skies and temperatures in the low 20’s. Some states or regions can be distinct in the consistency of the landscape. Arizona is mile after mile of red rock, Napa Valley is mile after mile of vineyards. And todays stretch through Kansas and Nebraska was mile after mile of cornfields.

Leaving Rulo we headed west on US-73 to Dawson and then north on US-75 to Nebraska City. A few more jogs west and north and we arrived in Lincoln in time to visit the Nebraska State Capitol.

The Kansas State Capitol was originally designed and built over a period of almost four decades and completed in 1903. A $322M renovation of the capitol, including extensive mechanical systems and finishes upgrades, began in 2000 and was completed in 2013.

The results were very positive. The dome is beautifully restored, as are the limestone blocks that form the foundation.

House chambers and the Senate chambers

The atrium is open under the cupula down to the ground floor. In the bottom floor there are four tiles indicating the four points of the compass. However, as you move up the floors only one of the tiles is visible – the tile that corresponds to the direction you are looking. In the images below, one is looking North, the other South – otherwise the two look identical.

The Kansas legislative session had finished for the year. As with other mid-western states the more controversial legislation involved prohibitions on gender affirming care for minors. The legislation was passed by the Republican controlled House and Senate, only to be vetoed by Democrat Governor Laura Kelly. This lead to a revote with super-majorities to over ride the veto.

Today was the first time either of us had been to Kansas. We started out on clear blue skies with the temperature comfortably in the mid 20’s. Leaving I-35 we took OK-33 east to Perkins then turned north on US-177. In the midst of the green fields on either side we caught glimpses of power plants, refineries and windfarms (one of the largest we’ve seen was near Ponca City)

After a short fuel break in Winfield, the skies turned quickly from light blue to a dark blue due to the heavy clouds that moved in. Thus far in our trip we have not encountered rain – these skies looked to change that – but other than a bit of misting nothing much occurred. Odds are the rain would fall as the clouds moved further east.

At Florence we veered northwest to Council Grove which had some historical significance as part of the Santa Fe trail. A brief stop to snap some pictures (including a local game of bean bag toss) and off we went again towards Burlingame. This stretch of road through Auburn was the nicest stretch all day. It reminded us of Springbank Alberta – a rural bedroom community outside of the ‘metropolitan’ area of Topeka.

Oklahoma is an Oil State. The oil industry is prominent and a big part of their economy, and they are not shy about it. As we approached the Capitol we saw a pump jack on display as a monument. And in front of the Capitol itself is a oil derrick with signage for ‘Phillips 66, a major petroleum company based in Houston, but founded by two Oklahomans.

The Capitol building is beautifully constructed, with bright interiors of marble an stone. The rotunda is quite high and is visible from all floors in the structure.

The house and senate were closed to visitors. Tours are offered Monday to Friday but not on weekends, so we had to content ourselves with pictures of their entrances with beautiful frescoes overhead.

pp

Like other state houses we have seen on our visit, the Oklahoma Capitol honors and recognizes the accomplishments of kinsman. To that end, portraits of accomplished Oklahomans are found throughout the capitol. Notable mentions include Jim Thorpe (Olympian) , Sam Walton (of Walmart fame), T Boones Pickens (financier) and Will Rogers ( vaudeville performer)

Although the legislative session had ended for the year, there was still evidence of ‘democracy in action’. During our visit there was a group bringing attention to the issue of child abuse and lobbying for greater action to address and mitigate this grim issue. The local Fox TV station was providing coverage.

Following the visit to the Capitol, we made our way to the site of the Alfred P Murrah Federal Building which was the target of domestic terrorists in April 1995. The bombing as the deadliest act of terrorism in U.S. history prior to 9/11, killing 168 people including children and injuring 680. A stark monument has been erected at the site, along with a section of fence that was originally used to isolated the site in the aftermath. The fence is used to hold and display flowers and messages left by those who mourn the victims. Another sad reminder that the liberties that Americans enjoy can also be used to give agency to those who would do harm.

Leaving Lamesa we ventured east towards Wichita Falls before heading north towards Oklahoma City. It was a day full of 70 mph highways and not much else. Simple riding, it provided ample time to reflect on the six days we had spent in the Lone Star State, and how it differs from home.

Highways in Texas are supposed to move people from A to B as fast and as simply as possible. Interstates (which we avoid) can be as high as 80 mph. Secondary roads (typically with posted speed limits in Canada of 55 mph) are usually 70 or 75 – many with level crossings.

They’re not afraid to build overpasses in Texas. Several times we vaulted over crossing roads aboard a huge overpass – where in Canada we would have saved the expense and put in a traffic light.

Texas is not noted for it’s cold weather. Perhaps that perception has changed since February 2021 when it had a huge cold snap that crashed the local power grid. In any case, every bridge we crossed, however small or simple in construction, was preceded by a sign warning that “Bridge May Ice in Cold Weather”. No doubt the bridge icing effect is a real phenomena, but it requires a significant span to take effect. I doubt whether it would be a real concern on 95% of the bridges we crossed. Still, it appears to be a pre-occupation. As does their focus on ‘littering’ with their ‘ Don’t Mess with Texas signage’. Could be a great source of revenue.

The trip today illustrated the full spectrum of energy sources in Texas. We passed through endless oil fields, only to encounter wind farms and solar panel installations. Texas has invested heavily in renewables and that was fully evident.

We crossed the Red River into Oklahoma south of Duncan and noticed an immediate increase in the ‘greenery’ of the surrounding countryside, as we left Texas behind.

Leaving Alpine we ventured north on TX-118 to Fort Davis, a pleasant ride with low 20’s temperatures, clear blue skies and a fun road. At Fort Davis we veered to the Southwest following TX-166. This was a straight patch of rode providing with us with clear views to the southwest.

A Cloudless sky except for a stationary blob of white. What could it be? As we were only 300 km south of Roswell New Mexico, there was the obvious connection as a UFO (at least as far as we were concerned it was). We did find out later that it was a fixe balloon with instruments used for border patrol. From it’s vantage it had a clear view of the Mexican border to the south.

Continuing on TX-166 the road became more hilly and twisty, as we wound through the mountains and buttes that filled this part of Texas. The great roads continues as we rejoined TX-118 and headed towards the McDonald Observatory.

The observatory is owned and operated by the University of Texas. It was not always so; the original benefactor left a $1,000,000 endowment to set up an astronomical observatory on the summit of Mount Locke. However, UofT had no Astronomy department at the time, so the University of Chicago stepped in for a while. However, that has been remedied and UofT is back in charge.

The loop of TX-166 and TX-118 was another ‘Destination Highway’ worthy route with great twists, turns and scenery. So it was with great sadness that we left it behind as we ventured north on TX-17. From there on the roads became flat and fast and otherwise uninteresting.

The remaining stretch of road to Lamesa took us through the heart of the ‘West Texas Oil Patch’. We passed countless pump jacks, oil batteries and a few straddle plants (that extract LPG liquids from the natural gas coming in from the fields) We had to endure a long section of roadwork from Kermit to Andrews. For much of the trip we saw nothing but trucks and pickup trucks. We saw our first SUV only as we entered Lamesa.

On the agenda today was a visit to Big Bend National park followed by a run through the Big Bend Ranch State Park. Both highly rated motorcycle roads.

Starting out from Alpine it was a bit cool – temperatures in the high teens. Heading south on TX-118, we encountered some nice twisty sections weaving through beautiful scenery of the buttes and mountains sprinkled among the semi-arid desert.

Shortly after the TX-170 junction, we came to the park gate, paid our admission, and followed the park roads around to Sotol Vista Overlook. The road was great and the scenery was amazing, with vistas of the cliffs lining the Rio Grande river.

Continuing on from Sotol Vista, we hoped to view the Rio Grande running through the Santa Elena Canyon, however with recent flooding a week previously, the road was closed about 11 km out, as there was still water on the road. It would have been passable by our bikes, however we didn’t know if other sections were washed out further on.

Reversing course, we back tracked out of the park and turned west along TX-170 to Lajitas. The road was recently capped with fresh asphalt, but apparently not regraded as the road was surprisingly bumpy. The road rose and fell with several twisty sections.

After Lajitas we entered the Big Bend Ranch State Park for a glorious 77 km of motorcycle nirvana. The stretch of TX-170 has everything. Smooth pavement, twisty up and down roads, spectacular scenery ( each corner was like a post card), no traffic and no cops. Honestly, probably the best motorcycle road we’ve seen both Canada and the USA thus far.,

Arriving in Presidio we grabbed a quick snack at The Bean Café before taking US-67 north to Marfa. This was still a nice road but much tamer than those we had finished. Maintaining a steady speed meant decent ventilation in what was now low 30’s weather.

Heading east from Marta we returned to Alpine – another fine day of riding under blue skies and not a drop of rain along the way.