Toll Road Tell-Tales

The trip was delayed due to Covid and so the front end had to be modified somewhat to place us in Morocco at the correct time. So from Paris we had to put in three long days down to Malaga. The objective day one was Bordeaux.  600 plus km days require the use of toll roads – and today we spent most of our time travelling them.  Payment options include cash, credit card and (we’re guessing) transponder.  We relied on credit for the most part with cash payment (quite embarrassing, not a good plan to drop your change!)

Leaving Paris was fun. Scooters were out in force and could suddenly appear without warning bobbing and weaving in the traffic, splitting lanes and just otherwise blowing by our own stolid pace.  Kept us on our toes. 

The toll roads cut a swath across the French countryside, with a service center every 50 km or so, shared among the majors (Shell, Total, Esso, BP) which was good  because at 130 km/hr we went through it quickly!

I’ve visited the vineyards in BC – they are quaint and rather tiny.  The Napa Valley in California is much more expansive. But the vineyards in Bordeaux extend to the horizon – like Saskatchewan wheat fields only with grapes.  Pretty obvious what Bordeaux is famous for.

Checked Luggage

Most airlines have provision for ‘special items’.  Things like ski equipment, bicycles, kayaks – can be processed through ‘oversize luggage’.  But motorcycles are a different  class altogether.  My bike needed to be dropped off the day before at WestJet Cargo with no more than a quarter tank (a requirement of TDG – Transportation of Dangerous goods.  Next came the flight to Paris on the 265h to Charles deGaulle airport.  A winding trek through the terminal to find luggage, a check about shuttles (no go), ending with a quick cab ride to the hotel to meet up with Steve.  From there we went on a protracted 4.5 km trek to fine FWS office in the west end of the airport. The weybill magically worked, a quick (well not so quick) visit to Customs and $125 Euro’s later the bike was delivered.  A quick trip to the local Total station and then back to the hotel and all was set for our trip to start the next day.

Detour in the Desert

Greater Metropolitan Phoenix is not known for it’s motorcycle roads. However, to attend the State Capital it was not to be avoided.

We started out from Needles heading East on I-40 and then dropped down US-95 through Lake Havasu City (home of the relocated London Bridge) Lake Havasu had all the amenities of a thriving retirement community including big box stores such as Lowe’s and Home Depot.

South of Havasu the road finally get’s interesting with some twistier sections and some irregular landforms, mountains and hills. Around this time we got hit with some rain (the whole region was broiling with thunderstorm activity).

South of Parker we left 95 heading east on Hwy 72. To the north the clouds were black and menacing; to the south blue sky with cumulous clouds marching in formation. Some low points were beset by water coursing across the road as we were entering a ‘flash flood’ area. Too much rain to the north apparently – it proved too much for a stretch just west of Bouse which was closed by the police – forcing us to detour back to 95 and south the I-10.

On I-10 the cross wind was from the north and quite refreshing at a relatively chilly 27 C. Moments later it shifted and was suddenly a hot muggy 36 C; suitable prelude to a dust storm.

The rest of the trip was uneventful as we entered Phoenix and visited the Capitol. The stop proved fortuitous in that the delay meant we arrived in Wickenburg just after the downpours had come through and drenched the town. Rainbows were taken as a sign of better weather tomorrow.

Democrat Blue Belle

Upon our approach to the Arizona Capital we reached out to a staff member for directions. A quick exchange revealed a) the location of the original Capital building as well as the newer buildings that housed the Representatives and the Senate and b) she was a democrat with not a good opinion of the current Republican Governor Doug Ducey. Oh and she was a Quaker and wore a ‘Democrat Blue’ pant suit.

The original Arizona Capital building proved has been turned into a museum, the House of Representatives and the Senate having each relocated to newer buildings (built in the 60’s) . Neither is session so we took pictures of the respective chambers. It was interesting to note the various signs and ‘mementos that some members left on their desks. It was as though they were leaving silent messages for any citizens who visited the chambers. Many Republicans has small Elephant statues (perennial symbol of the GOP). Some had banners displayed such as “I Support Parents”, “We Support #Red for Ed” and the ubiquitous “Make America Great Again”. A member of Hispanic heritage had a copy of a book ” We Will Dance Our Truth”.

To enter the House of Representatives we underwent a full inspection of our bags and jackets and were scanned for metals. To enter the Senate – we just walked in. Apparently the security requirements are established by the Leaders of the respective assemblies. Makes one wonder what the House fears that the Senate does not.

A brief inquiry of the 3rd floor security guard identified Immigration as one of the more contentious issues when the house was in session. Legislation – previously approved – had been recalled (ostensibly to revised it’s requirements). As a border state it is no surprise.

The “Low Point” of this Trip

Starting out from Lone Pine this morning, a refreshing 16 C outside, we turned east on CA-136 enroute to Death Valley. Another perfect day with no wind, high cirrus clouds amidst blue skies – where the airliner contrails remained intact and well defined for extended periods. The road was straight and true until we neared Panamint Springs. The temperature had warmed to 20 C when we started our twisty descent. At the bottom the temperature had risen to 27 C.

Passing through Stove Pipe wells and across the plateau we ascended another range, traversed the pass and descended again into ‘Death Valley Proper’ where we paid our $25 fee and entered the park. At Furnace Creek we veered south on Badwater road to check out the Badwater Basin (at -282 ft / -86 m) is the lowest point in the US. Badwater road as fun to dive – much more twisty than the alternative Hwy 190.

The landscape is nothing short of spectacular.

Upon exiting the park we headed south through Shoshone and Baker, crossing into the Mojave Desert. – a desolate and forlorn space beset with beautiful dunes and unusual rock formations – and not a few budding Joshua trees. We picked up I-40 south of Kelso and made a quick tack towards Needles where we stayed for the night.